18" doll pattern - 50s style sash dress

Pattern included in the Substack Doll Clothes Pattern Club

This dress is a favourite of mine because it looks so pretty. It is not easy to make or fast to make. 

Here are some tips to get a good result.

Most important, you will need to print it out from a computer so you can be sure to get it printed at 100%. The 1" square is exactly 1" or 2.5cm except for maybe the width of the printed line. Certainly not a mm or a 1/16".

Sometimes the doll's arms or hands might be a bit different. Check the sleeve band will fit by pinning it with a generous 1/4" seam and trying it on the doll.

The collar sits so the lace overlaps at the neck not the fabric part of the collar.

I like to pin the lining in place with it facing me.

Then I turn it over so I can see the collar basting and use that as a guide.

When you come to attach the sash to the sides don't make the mistake I did on one side where I didn't lay the dress flat on the table to get the sash and the front bodice to lay flat. You can notice that the side front on your right is not laying perfectly flat.

Lay the dress and sash on the table like the image above and mark the side seam on the sash.

Sew gathering threads either side of the pin. Start each thread with a back stitch.

Gather it up tight so it measures 1" and tie off each thread with 4 knots.

The sash should lay so you can sew down the middle of the gathering threads but make sure you lay it all on the table again and make sure the side front lies flat. Pin the sash to the dress then sew it in place following the side seam on the dress. In the image below I had to sew closer to the right gathering thread to sew exactly on the side seam with the side bodice nice and flat.

If you haven't signed up for the pattern club you can read more here

or you can buy this pattern in my Etsy shop here.

Happy Doll Dressmaking

Val

The beautiful pointed add-on bib

Use this bib design with a round neck, bodice and skirt dress.

The fashion file bib pattern only includes the cutting out pattern. You will have to print 2 and cut one along the pointed stitching line to create the stitching template.

The 1804 Add-0n bibs pattern in Etsy includes the pattern and the template to cut out.

In both cases you will need some of your own pattern pieces for the bodice or use the dress bodice form one of the 1804 The 18" Doll Dress, also on Etsy.

You can see another version here.

Cut out 2 pointed bib pieces.

I didn't fully cut out the pattern piece so I would only have to cut the points once.

Cut out the stitching template. With the two pointed pieces right sides together place the template on top and pin it down.

Stitch just away from the paper template following the points.

Trim the seam allowance.

Snip off the points and cut into the valleys.

Turn the bib and gently push out the points. Press. Lay it on top of the front bodice and pin it on. Pin the shoulders too to hold it straight.

Stitch close to the edge of the pointed edge. If you like you can stitch small buttons or beads at the points now. I like to leave them until the dress is finished because they always seem to get in the way somehow while making the dress. This means you see the stitching on the inside though.

Stitch across the shoulders near the edge to hold it all together. This is now the front bodice. Treat it as one piece. Complete the dress bodice.

For the skirt hem band, cut out the band pieces and sew them together at the side seams.

Press the seams open and press the band in half.

Fold the back ends of the band right sides together and stitch. Clip the corner and turn.

Gently push out the corners.

Cut out the upper skirt pieces and sew them together at the side seams. Press the seams open.

Press the back facing to the inside.

Lay the hem band and upper skirt right sides together so the finished end of the band is level with the back facing fold. Turn the facing to the right side and pin it in place. Pin along the rest of the skirt and hem band. Stitch.

Fold the hem band down so the back facing turns to the inside. I should have cut my hem band out with the pinking shears but I did it after stitching the band in place.

Press the seam up towards the upper skirt and top stitch close to the seam line to hole the seam allowances in place.

You now have the skirt ready to gather and sew to the bodice.

Add velcro to the back.