Thursday, August 16, 2018

How to Sew Doll Clothes: Petticoat straps for doll clothes

I am always a bit wary of satin ribbon when I need to secure the ends in a garment.

It tends to fray really easy so you need to allow plenty of overlap into a seam allowance and I like to stitch it more than once in order to secure it and prevent fraying.

When I put the straps in the bodice of my petticoat from Underwear No. 4 view 1 I had a 1/2" extending past the seam line. I cut two straps 5 1/2" long and put little dots a 1/2" in from the ends.

I lined up the dots with the seam line on the bodice where I had my pins to mark the position of the straps and pinned the ends in place.

I then stitched forward, back then forward again to secure the ends in place before adding the lining.
After securing the two fronts of the straps I curved each strap to lie correctly and pinned the back end in place then stitched each back end to secure it.

After enclosing the straps in the lining I trimmed the seam allowance around the bodice but I made sure I didn't cut off the stitching I used to secure the straps originally. This means there are two lots of stitching to prevent fraying of the ribbon if it is played with a lot.

For View 2 which isn't lined I secure the satin ribbon straps by stitching them to the wrong side first then folding the strap up and stitching them again. This also gives me two lots of stitching to keep the ribbon from fraying.

Mark the strap positions on the wrong side.

Place the ribbons right side up if it has different sides. Most satin ribbon is double sided. Make the ends level with the top of the bodice.

Stitch across each end 1/4" in from the end.

Pin the backs of the straps so they will lie flat on the doll and stitch across each end.

Fold the ribbon up and stitch across each end again, close to the top edge.

It is as neat as possible on my very sheer hankie fabric

Add something to cover the ends if you like. I just zig zagged across the bows the same as sewing on buttons.

I preferred my fancy trim for this design.

Happy Sewing,

Pieced Pants FF5 as a Stand Alone Pattern for 18" Dolls

I have been threatening to create a pattern from the pieced pants fashion file for ages. I started drawing up the pieces but it was almost harder to draft them on the computer than it was to just cut up the pattern pieces from 1813 Gathered Pull-ons.

You can see how I first made these cute pants in this blog post from the past.

Now I have created pattern pieces for each section with the seam allowance included and I have written complete instructions to finish the trousers. I made a slight change to the waist by lowering it about 3/8". They reach to just under the doll tag on 18" American Girl dolls.

This design is for sale in my shop but adventurous designers will be able to see how easy it is to create it themselves from any pull-on pants pattern.

Happy Sewing,

Doll Clothes Designer and Dressmaker

Wednesday, August 1, 2018

Why my petticoat pattern is worth having!

So you have seen the preview and you're thinking that petticoat looks pretty simple. It should be free. I could make that with one hand behind my back.

Yes, the design concept is simple. Just like a dress but the bodice is cut off.

What makes my pattern worth having is the fact that it takes the guess work out of your sewing.

By getting the pattern you can gayly make petticoats from your nice fabrics and be 99% sure that it will fit and look great. ( I can't control all the variables)

With this pattern you get step by step instructions for a method that works.

No need to think about making it work for the dress patterns you already have. Just line up your dress skirt with the petticoat skirt page before cutting out the petticoat skirt pattern pieces and you can adjust the length easily.  (The waist line of this petticoat sits about 1/4" above the doll label at the narrowest part of the waist)

Here I am using the knee length skirt for the waist level dress in 1804.

There is no need to experiment with strap lengths or skirt fullness. You can see what it will look like from my samples.

This is the knee length high waist dress from 1804. My waist style petticoat with the knee length skirt fits under perfectly.

I have 5 years experience making doll clothes and though I don't know it all yet I can help ease some of the pain when you need to get a cute outfit done fast. You have a much greater chance to "get it right the first time" if you follow a patten.

Happy Sewing,