2 Step Variation to go from 1843 Princess Line Dress to a Whole New Doll Clothes Design: Part 3 - The Tutorial

Let's make this dress using 1843.
This is 1843.

It is a cute 40s design but it is going to take a bit of ingenuity to get the ruffles continuous over the shoulder.

The first thing is to print out the 4 pages with the panels 1a 1b 2a 2b.

Before cutting out panel 1a you need to create the square neckline. I used this one on the pink florally one but if you want it a bit lower just make it 1/4" lower.. I used the lower version on the pattern I made up for the shop.

Next you need to create the centre front fold line. The centre front lies on the seam line. Because you are cutting out some of the flare you need to add a bit to the panel seam edge. you don't want to increase the waist so just slant it out from the waist line. I expanded it by 1/2" at the hemline.

If you are a bit more drafting minded you can cut a slit from the middle of the panel up to the side dot of the neckline and flare it out so the neckline changes too. This helps it to fall more neatly when it is sewn up.

Cut out all the panels. When you cut out the front panel cut straight across the hem edge at the centre front.

It's not ideal, but I had to put 3 panels one way and 1 panel on the perpendicular grain. 

A friend of mine who has been involved in the garment and sewing industry for many years told me that the lengthwise and crosswise grains are the same in strength for fabrics woven on modern machines. As long as you get the pieces exactly on the straight grain, you can use crosswise or lengthwise grains. Of course, you need to be aware that a design may differ in each direction. My all over floral seems safe.

Don't trust that you will know which panel is which when you take the pattern pieces off. I put a pin on the right side of the side front panels. Then unpinned the side back panels and immediately pinned the front and back side panels together at the shoulder seam. 

Pin the front panel and the back panels at the shoulder seams too. Stitch the shoulder seams.

Sew your trim onto the panel seam allowance. Curve it off the edge at the waist. You can sew it to the front and back panels or the side panels. I sewed mine to the front and back panels.

She's looking pretty cute so far. I hope you still had the pin in the side front pieces so you get them sewn on the right way. I had to ease the back pieces a bit to get them to fit together neatly. The trim takes away any stretch you get on the panel it is sewn to. Overlock the seam and press it towards the centre front and back. Stitch close to the seam line on the centre front panel side of the seam to hold the panel seam down.

Here is the finished garment.

Rather than write it all twice I am going to continue the instructions in the PDF tutorial that you can find at dolldressmaking.teachable.com

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The tutorial continues, showing you how to add the ties for the bow at the back as well as showing you how to create the lining and sew it in.

I hope you get pattern 1843 and have a go at this 40s pinny. It is easy to do. The 1843 dress is very cute too and perfect for either a 40s or a 50s dress.

I am always making variations on designs so I need a good place to save all my adjusted pattern pieces. I used the editable envelope that is available in my shops. You can edit the title, side title and size by opening the file in Acrobat Reader. Just make sure you 'save as' so you keep your original as a blank.

To get this image I enlarged the blog post image on my ipad and holding the envelope front with two fingers in the ipad surround I lightly traced the image with a pencil. I then went over it and put the envelope together.

You can make notes on the back if there is something you need to remember for the next time you make it. All my patterns from my shops come with an envelope for the design. It makes filing in a folder or a box, neat and easy.

Pin this blog post on your doll board. Just mouse over an image and click the pin icon.

Get your free photo tutorial at dolldressmaking.teachable.com in the Fashion File resource section

Buy the editable envelope in my Australian shop or my Etsy shop

See Part 1 Introducing the Princess Line, and

Part 2 on types of variations on the basic princess line.

Happy Doll Dressmaking,
Val