Updating the instructions for 1840 Sailor Suit pleated skirt

I was surprised to see that my pleated skirt instructions dated back to 2016. That's a lot of experience gained up to 2026.

The instructions for the skirt with the 1840 sailor suit were pretty vague and the free pleated skirt instructions definitely needed some new photos.

Below is a photo tutorial for the 1840 sailor suit pleated skirt. (these pleats are a bit narrower than the free skirt pleats so they make a lovely knife pleat skirt.

Hem your strip first. I pressed over as close to 18" as possible. I then folded it the second time as I sewed it. I started with a 36" strip but 34" is enough.

Lay the end of the strip, right side up, level with the edge of the page and start adding pins at the first line then every second line after. Just go the end of the page.

Lay it on the ironing board wrong side up with the pins on tour right.

Make a fold using the pin as a guide. Make sure the hem edge and top edge are matching so your pleat will be perpendicular.

Take out the pin and press a crease. Here I have unfolded it to show the first crease.

Fold again using the second pin as a guide. Take out the pin and press the pleat. Make sure your hem edge and top edge lay perfectly level with the edges underneath the fold.

Now you have two creases.

Continue creasing.

Place the strip back on the pleat guide and line up the first crease with the first line. Bring the crease to the second line and pin it in place. Avoid pinning the paper.

Make sure the next crease is lined up with the third line then make the next pleat.

Keep going to the end of the page.

Being careful to keep the pleats perpendicular, stitch across the tops of the pleats just a bit less than the 1/4"seam allowance. Back stitch at each end.

It now looks like this.

Take it to the ironing board. Hold down two pleats so you can press them as perpendicular as possible.

Continue two pleats at a time.

To make the next set of pleats put the edge of the last pleat level with the second line on the guide page.

Place pins at the second pin line then every second line to the end of the page.

Follow the steps again. Crease at the pins then make the pleats and stitch across the tops. Then press the pleats in place. Keep going until you get to the end of the strip.

Follow the rest of the skirt instructions in the pattern file.

Happy Doll dressmaking,

Val

18" doll pattern - 50s style sash dress

Pattern included in the Substack Doll Clothes Pattern Club

This dress is a favourite of mine because it looks so pretty. It is not easy to make or fast to make. 

Here are some tips to get a good result.

Most important, you will need to print it out from a computer so you can be sure to get it printed at 100%. The 1" square is exactly 1" or 2.5cm except for maybe the width of the printed line. Certainly not a mm or a 1/16".

Sometimes the doll's arms or hands might be a bit different. Check the sleeve band will fit by pinning it with a generous 1/4" seam and trying it on the doll.

The collar sits so the lace overlaps at the neck not the fabric part of the collar.

I like to pin the lining in place with it facing me.

Then I turn it over so I can see the collar basting and use that as a guide.

When you come to attach the sash to the sides don't make the mistake I did on one side where I didn't lay the dress flat on the table to get the sash and the front bodice to lay flat. You can notice that the side front on your right is not laying perfectly flat.

Lay the dress and sash on the table like the image above and mark the side seam on the sash.

Sew gathering threads either side of the pin. Start each thread with a back stitch.

Gather it up tight so it measures 1" and tie off each thread with 4 knots.

The sash should lay so you can sew down the middle of the gathering threads but make sure you lay it all on the table again and make sure the side front lies flat. Pin the sash to the dress then sew it in place following the side seam on the dress. In the image below I had to sew closer to the right gathering thread to sew exactly on the side seam with the side bodice nice and flat.

If you haven't signed up for the pattern club you can read more here

or you can buy this pattern in my Etsy shop here.

Happy Doll Dressmaking

Val

The beautiful pointed add-on bib

Use this bib design with a round neck, bodice and skirt dress.

The fashion file bib pattern only includes the cutting out pattern. You will have to print 2 and cut one along the pointed stitching line to create the stitching template.

The 1804 Add-0n bibs pattern in Etsy includes the pattern and the template to cut out.

In both cases you will need some of your own pattern pieces for the bodice or use the dress bodice form one of the 1804 The 18" Doll Dress, also on Etsy.

You can see another version here.

Cut out 2 pointed bib pieces.

I didn't fully cut out the pattern piece so I would only have to cut the points once.

Cut out the stitching template. With the two pointed pieces right sides together place the template on top and pin it down.

Stitch just away from the paper template following the points.

Trim the seam allowance.

Snip off the points and cut into the valleys.

Turn the bib and gently push out the points. Press. Lay it on top of the front bodice and pin it on. Pin the shoulders too to hold it straight.

Stitch close to the edge of the pointed edge. If you like you can stitch small buttons or beads at the points now. I like to leave them until the dress is finished because they always seem to get in the way somehow while making the dress. This means you see the stitching on the inside though.

Stitch across the shoulders near the edge to hold it all together. This is now the front bodice. Treat it as one piece. Complete the dress bodice.

For the skirt hem band, cut out the band pieces and sew them together at the side seams.

Press the seams open and press the band in half.

Fold the back ends of the band right sides together and stitch. Clip the corner and turn.

Gently push out the corners.

Cut out the upper skirt pieces and sew them together at the side seams. Press the seams open.

Press the back facing to the inside.

Lay the hem band and upper skirt right sides together so the finished end of the band is level with the back facing fold. Turn the facing to the right side and pin it in place. Pin along the rest of the skirt and hem band. Stitch.

Fold the hem band down so the back facing turns to the inside. I should have cut my hem band out with the pinking shears but I did it after stitching the band in place.

Press the seam up towards the upper skirt and top stitch close to the seam line to hole the seam allowances in place.

You now have the skirt ready to gather and sew to the bodice.

Add velcro to the back.