Updating the instructions for 1840 Sailor Suit pleated skirt

I was surprised to see that my pleated skirt instructions dated back to 2016. That's a lot of experience gained up to 2026.

The instructions for the skirt with the 1840 sailor suit were pretty vague and the free pleated skirt instructions definitely needed some new photos.

Below is a photo tutorial for the 1840 sailor suit pleated skirt. (these pleats are a bit narrower than the free skirt pleats so they make a lovely knife pleat skirt.

Hem your strip first. I pressed over as close to 18" as possible. I then folded it the second time as I sewed it. I started with a 36" strip but 34" is enough.

Lay the end of the strip, right side up, level with the edge of the page and start adding pins at the first line then every second line after. Just go the end of the page.

Lay it on the ironing board wrong side up with the pins on tour right.

Make a fold using the pin as a guide. Make sure the hem edge and top edge are matching so your pleat will be perpendicular.

Take out the pin and press a crease. Here I have unfolded it to show the first crease.

Fold again using the second pin as a guide. Take out the pin and press the pleat. Make sure your hem edge and top edge lay perfectly level with the edges underneath the fold.

Now you have two creases.

Continue creasing.

Place the strip back on the pleat guide and line up the first crease with the first line. Bring the crease to the second line and pin it in place. Avoid pinning the paper.

Make sure the next crease is lined up with the third line then make the next pleat.

Keep going to the end of the page.

Being careful to keep the pleats perpendicular, stitch across the tops of the pleats just a bit less than the 1/4"seam allowance. Back stitch at each end.

It now looks like this.

Take it to the ironing board. Hold down two pleats so you can press them as perpendicular as possible.

Continue two pleats at a time.

To make the next set of pleats put the edge of the last pleat level with the second line on the guide page.

Place pins at the second pin line then every second line to the end of the page.

Follow the steps again. Crease at the pins then make the pleats and stitch across the tops. Then press the pleats in place. Keep going until you get to the end of the strip.

Follow the rest of the skirt instructions in the pattern file.

Happy Doll dressmaking,

Val