Sometimes doing something for the first time is a bit tricky.
Once you see how it goes together it all makes sense.
With that I mind I have created this photo tutorial to explain and show the steps for getting started with the open neck blouse. I cut out everything with pinking shears.
Pin the collar pieces right sides together. Make sure you leave the correct side open. It is a bit less pointy than the other side. Sew around the 3 edges. I don't bother trimming the seams. Just snip the corners and turn the collar right side out. Gently push out the corners.
Now way back when I first designed this blouse I was still thinking in people size and used the techniques I learnt when making clothes for myself. The pattern instructions tell you to stay stitch the open side of the collar and snip it. DON'T BOTHER. The pieces are so small that snipping is not required.
Fold both the front facing to the inside. Just match up the neck and shoulder edges and make sure the hem edges are straight then press the fold.
Sew each shoulder seam making sure the front facing is out of the way.
Once again the instructions say to stay stick the neck edge and snip it. Again, DON'T DO THIS.
With the bodice and collar right side up pin the centre of the collar to the centre back of the bodice. Measure 3/8" from the front facing fold and mark it with pins.
Pin the ends of the collar level with the marker pins then gently stretch the bodice neck and add more pins. At least one at the shoulder seams and one more before the end pin. If you are a beginner doll dress maker you might want to baste the collar to the neck at this stage. You will need to gently stretch the neck as you sew.
Fold each front facing back along the fold line. Use the pin already in the collar to pin the facing and collar near the fold. Use the pin at the shoulder seam to pin the facing a bit past the shoulder seam.
Stitch from one facing fold to the other with the collar facing up. You will need to gently stretch the bodice neck edge as you go. You may have to adjust the raw edges so they stay aligned. Turn it over to check your success. I was a bit careless and let my neck raw edge slip a bit so I only just caught it in the seam. That's OK. It will get stitched with the under stitching step. Basically You are looking for pleats or obvious misses that will need to be unpicked and fixed.
On the other side I didn't keep the shoulder seam open as I sewed over it. But I am not going to bother fixing that.
Snip the corners at each end then turn the facings right side out. Gently push out the corners.
Press the collar seam where the front facing is on each side and,
turn it over and press the collar seam down.
The collar seams need to be pressed towards the bodice so you can stitch it down.
Before stitching down the collar seam you need to stitch the shoulder of the front facings to the bodice. Pin them so they line up with the shoulder seams. They should fall past the seam line of the bodice shoulder. Stitch them in place from the wrong side. Follow the seam ditch.
Under stitch the collar on the right side. Start about an inch from the facing fold and stitch 1/8" from the seam line. Make sure you are stitching through the seam allowances that you have pressed down previously.
The collar seam allowances now stay in place.
Line up the fronts as tough you are closing the blouse. Line it up with the centre back so it looks neat. Pin the revers to the front to hold them for ironing.
I pressed the neck open just up to where it meets the collar. Then I press the centre of the collar at the back where it naturally rolls to help it sit flat.
Happy Doll Dressmaking,
Val