3 ways to easily apply bias binding to doll clothes

Need-to-know Doll Dressmaking Tips

Using bias strips as a decorative binding

• Bias binding is easy and versatile

• It can be used on both casual and dressy garments 

• There are several ways to apply the binding

Since starting to sew doll clothes I have become almost obsessed with using bias binding to neaten the necks and armholes of dresses and tops, creating a neat gathered edge on necks and pockets and purses and even creating a decorative hem edge on skirts and dresses. It is just so easy to add to almost any garment.

Whether the dress is a vintage beauty or a weekend play dress using bias binding in matching or contrast colours provides a perfect feature or neat finish. Cutting stripes or checks on the bias looks fabulous.

There are at least 3 different ways to apply the binding and each has its virtues. They are interchangeable but speed and ease will play a part in your choice of method.

What is Bias Binding?

Bias binding is made from a folded strip of fabric cut on the bias or cross grain of woven fabric. When cut like this it is quite stretchy and works like ribbing on a knit garment. It is usually creased along the centre lengthwise then the raw edges are folded to the centre. When it is folded again the raw edges are enclosed. Its stretchiness makes it perfect for binding along curves like necklines and armholes.

How can it be applied?

Method 1

The quickest way to apply the binding to an edge is to fold a flat strip in half once. Use a strip about 1" wide.

With right sides together, line up the raw edges with the raw edge you are binding and stitch it in place. Press the binding away from the garment and seam towards the garment.

Top stitch along the right side so the seam is held in place on the wrong side.

The decorative bias strip on these pockets is perfect for this method.

Method 2

The second method is a bit neater but requires a bit more fiddling to create the bound edge. Use a strip 1 1/4" wide.

Open out the binding strip and place it right side down along the wrong side of the edge to be bound. Stitch it in place. Trim the seam.

Press the binding up over the seam allowance. Fold in the raw edge of the binding and then fold the binding over the seam allowance. 

Stitch it in place close to the fold.

Method 3

This method is both easy and quick.

Using a 1 1/4" strip fold it in half then stitch it in place to the wrong side of the edge to be bound. Trim the seam allowance.

Bring the folded edge of the binding all the way to the right side so it shows only on the right side and stitch it down close to the fold.

Making continuous bias binding

I have always wanted to make bias binding this way but I have never needed more than short strips. Have you tried making bias strips like this. See what I mean on the blog called Reconstructing History

Different ways to finish necks and armholes

Get the whole series now

Are you looking for a variety of ways to neaten necks and armholes on your doll clothes?

Get full instructions and different patterns to use for practising different ways to finish necks and armholes in the Finishing Necks and Arm Holes series of Applied Doll Dressmaking by Val Spiers Sews.

Happy Doll Dressmaking,

Val

Bring out your creative passion with doll dressmaking

Doll dressmaking is my passion.

3 important core values for me are: 

• being Artistic; 
• being Creative, and 
• being Passionate about what I do

I am happiest when I am creating. I love going to work each day!

Each day there are 3 things that will get my heart pumping:

1. Yoga
2. Walking
3. Doll dressmaking

To get my creative juices flowing I like to walk and think. Watching the sunrise is so inspiring.

I am planning a Summer doll clothes capsule and I have some garment images that I collected from a fashion you tube channel that I follow. She puts links to the items in the online shops so I just take some screen shots.

The first item I want to make is a simple strappy dress.

When I start designing I begin by drawing up the pattern pieces that I need. I usually use existing patterns to create new ones so it doesn't take a long time to get a design ready for sewing.

I am using the 18"dress bodice to draw up the front pieces for my strappy dress.

Not every design works out and sometimes I will stop after I have sewn the first sample. I like this one and will try to make a skirt with the flat front and elastic back similar to the dress. I have another pattern ready to sew up so I will continue with that one.

I tend to use less expensive fabrics for the first samples because I need to check for the look and the fit with the first sample.

This dress was meant to be a floaty summer shift but it turned out too wide under the arms and the skirt didn't float at all. I was hoping to get away from putting proper flaring in. That requires cutting the pattern from hem to neck in several places. My final decision for this dress will be fitted to the waist and an a-line skirt section. I may work on the flared design at a later date. But it's back to the drawing board for now.

Now that the design is well underway I start to look at setting up the instructions. This is the slowest part of creating the pattern and probably the most tiring because you need to spend several hours in front of the computer along with sewing the garment.

It is very satisfying to end up with something that looks fabulous on the doll and fits perfectly and goes together easily.

I am very happy with the final version. Now it is just a matter of finishing the instructions and publishing. You can find this one in the Newsletter pattern folder at no.13.

Look out for this simple dress that I have used as an example for this blog post. It will be in the Newsletter free pattern folder. You can join my mailing list to get monthly updates and access to a folder of free patterns for 18" dolls.

Yes I want access!

Happy Doll Dressmaking,

Val