Doll Clothes Sewing Tips - Bias back neck facing

There is always the opportunity to improve your doll dressmaking skills by looking at how others put the designs together. 

I am so grateful for the many doll dressmakers who post on blogs and on you tube and Facebook about their sewing experiences with doll clothes.

Many times I have thought "What an obvious method, how could I not have seen that?".

So in that spirit I am sharing a simple way to neaten the collar seam on a button down doll blouse.

For years I have resisted this method because I had an unfounded dislike of additional sewing or cutting out of pieces.

The couture appearance of this finish far out weighs the extra few minutes to set it up and I have no explanation to why I have left it so long to use this seam neatening method.

So, what is the finished result? Here are some shirts I made for my Summer doll clothes capsule. 1806 is a perfect second layer for the Summer clothes capsule.

And what do you need to do to get that finish?

About 4 1/2" of bias strip 1 1/8" wide.

Quite simply, you sew on the collar as instructed then you cut a 1 1/8" wide bias strip that extends about 1/2" into the front facings on each side. Fold the strip in half and press it. Centre it on the collar so the raw edges match the raw edges of the neck seam. Stitch it in place and trim the seam. Press it down over the seam allowance and stitch it down.

All this takes about 5 mins.

I haven't tried this folded bias strip on a round neck blouse yet but that is something I will do when I republish my round neck blouse pattern. At present I am redoing the Open Neck Blouse pattern to include the instructions for the bias facing. Look out for the New! version on Etsy.

You can download the instruction page on creating a bias facing with a collar from my Dropbox.

If you are signed up for my newsletter you can also access it as no.20 in the Newsletter Patterns folder.

Happy Doll Dressmaking,

Val

3 tips for sewing doll knits

I love sewing with knits. The garments always turn out like miniatures of people clothes rather than just doll clothes. Probably because they usually mimic the same styles as people clothes like t-shirts, sweaters and cardigans.

There is no need to worry about getting your knits to behave while you are sewing. I can count on one hand the number of times the needle plate has eaten the knit and I have have made a lot of knit doll clothes.

I don't even change the needle to a stretch needle unless I am sewing lycra that stretches in all directions. 

There are some simple ways to get your knits to behave. 

• I sew with a a very narrow zigzag that fits in the needle hole of my 1/4" foot. This is just enough to stop the knit wrinkling a lot or getting stuck in the needle plate.

• Press the hems and band seams as you go to make any waves flatten out.

• Folded bands can be controlled by pinning the raw edges together every inch or so. You then gently stretch it as you fit it to the front and pin it in place with the pins already in it.

Here is a video of how I do my neck bands for all my knits. You just have to make sure the length of the band fits the garment edge when being firmly stretch.

It is also important to choose your knits carefully. If you are using people t-shirts you will find that not all t-shirts are made from t-shirt double-knit. You can read more about choosing knits here.

You can find this t-shirt pattern in my Etsy Shop

1874 T-Shirt for boy dolls

Happy Doll Dressmaking,

Val

3 ways to easily apply bias binding to doll clothes

Need-to-know Doll Dressmaking Tips

Using bias strips as a decorative binding

• Bias binding is easy and versatile

• It can be used on both casual and dressy garments 

• There are several ways to apply the binding

Since starting to sew doll clothes I have become almost obsessed with using bias binding to neaten the necks and armholes of dresses and tops, creating a neat gathered edge on necks and pockets and purses and even creating a decorative hem edge on skirts and dresses. It is just so easy to add to almost any garment.

Whether the dress is a vintage beauty or a weekend play dress using bias binding in matching or contrast colours provides a perfect feature or neat finish. Cutting stripes or checks on the bias looks fabulous.

There are at least 3 different ways to apply the binding and each has its virtues. They are interchangeable but speed and ease will play a part in your choice of method.

What is Bias Binding?

Bias binding is made from a folded strip of fabric cut on the bias or cross grain of woven fabric. When cut like this it is quite stretchy and works like ribbing on a knit garment. It is usually creased along the centre lengthwise then the raw edges are folded to the centre. When it is folded again the raw edges are enclosed. Its stretchiness makes it perfect for binding along curves like necklines and armholes.

How can it be applied?

Method 1

The quickest way to apply the binding to an edge is to fold a flat strip in half once. Use a strip about 1" wide.

With right sides together, line up the raw edges with the raw edge you are binding and stitch it in place. Press the binding away from the garment and seam towards the garment.

Top stitch along the right side so the seam is held in place on the wrong side.

The decorative bias strip on these pockets is perfect for this method.

Method 2

The second method is a bit neater but requires a bit more fiddling to create the bound edge. Use a strip 1 1/4" wide.

Open out the binding strip and place it right side down along the wrong side of the edge to be bound. Stitch it in place. Trim the seam.

Press the binding up over the seam allowance. Fold in the raw edge of the binding and then fold the binding over the seam allowance. 

Stitch it in place close to the fold.

Method 3

This method is both easy and quick.

Using a 1 1/4" strip fold it in half then stitch it in place to the wrong side of the edge to be bound. Trim the seam allowance.

Bring the folded edge of the binding all the way to the right side so it shows only on the right side and stitch it down close to the fold.

Making continuous bias binding

I have always wanted to make bias binding this way but I have never needed more than short strips. Have you tried making bias strips like this. See what I mean on the blog called Reconstructing History

Different ways to finish necks and armholes

Get the whole series now

Are you looking for a variety of ways to neaten necks and armholes on your doll clothes?

Get full instructions and different patterns to use for practising different ways to finish necks and armholes in the Finishing Necks and Arm Holes series of Applied Doll Dressmaking by Val Spiers Sews.

Happy Doll Dressmaking,

Val

How to pick your knits for doll clothes

Why does my doll's tank top look so terrible!!

Your pattern is OK but you are probably using the wrong type of knit.

But don't rule out that your pattern is at fault.

I am giving you a perfect tank top pattern if you are subscribed to my newsletter. You can get on the mailing list HERE and get access to lots of free patterns mainly for 18" dolls.

The 18" doll Tank Top for knits

• Easy to sew and looks great
• Nice fit and doesn't need ribbing bands
• Fast to make using second hand t-shirts

Choose the right type of knit and your finished tank top will look great and fit great.

Below is one tank top made from a single knit fabric and one made from a tank top of mine that was made from the fine ribbing fabric. The knits don't look all that different until you try to sew them.

Logan is so happy that he got to wear the good tank top. Jenny is not so happy but she knows she will probably get Logan's tank top as soon as the photo shoot is over.

This tank top is quick and easy to sew, using strips of the t-shirt knit as bands that sew on, fold over and stitch in place with no special edge finishing. Both the single knit and the double knit are good to sew with no overlocking or serging.

By signing up for my monthly newsletter you will get access to the tank top pattern for free. You will also get updates about my blog so you won't miss any sewing tips or new patterns.

Yes, I want in!

Happy Doll Dressmaking,

Val

How to Sew Doll Clothes: Adding Slant Front Pockets

I can't stop myself from doing something else with the patterns that I design. This skirt is the Basic A-line Skirt pattern that you get to download when you join my mailing list. 

Once you sign up you get a link to download the skirt pattern as well as an access link to the Newsletter Patterns and Tutorials folder.

If this sounds good then click the button below to add your email to the list.

Doll clothes look so cute with front slant pockets. They are easy to add to garments that have a waist seam. This skirt has a waist band. You will need the Basic A-line Skirt pattern and the pocket pattern pieces to make this skirt with pockets.

The method works for any low gather skirt or trousers with a waist band as well as a dress with a narrow skirt attached at the waist.

First you have to realise that adding extra bulk to the front as pockets will affect the fit. You need to add more ease to the skirt front or the front of any pattern not sized for front pockets.

Place the centre front of the skirt pattern 1/8" from the fold and cut it out. This doesn't have to be exact. Cut the backs the same as the pattern. 

Cut out the pocket pieces using the same fabric for each or you can use a lighter or cheaper fabric for the pocket lining.

If you want to do piping trim you will need to stitch the piping to the right side of the lining top edge first.
Place the pocket linings on the skirt front, right sides together and matching the side and waist edges.
Stitch along the top edge of the lining 1/4" from the raw edge.

Trim the seam. Clip the curve every 1/4".

Turn the pocket linings to the inside and press. Do top stitching or fancy stitching or add trim at this point.

Place the pocket bag right side down so it matches the edges of the lining and the waist and side edges of the skirt. At this point you can stitch around the curved edge of the pocket to join the lining and bag. Then you pink the seam.

If you are going to use the French seam finish you will need to sew the seam twice.
Flip the pocket bag over and pin the pocket bag to the lining, inside out.

Match and pin the inside edges. They come together easily but you have to distort the skirt to get them together.

Stitch around the inside of the pocket with a 1/8" seam allowance. I didn't find it necessary to clip the curve.

Turn the pocket. The neat edge is on the outside and the raw edge is on the inside.

Stitch around the outside of the pocket so you just enclose the raw edge on the inside.

Finish the skirt as directed in the pattern.

You can get the pocket pattern pieces in the Newsletter Patterns and Tutorial folder. I have created a new Pattern Hack Series folder where you will find folders for different patterns. The first one is the basic A-line Skirt. Future series will be for the patterns in my shop.

If you don't already have access to the patterns you can sign up to my newsletter below.

Happy Sewing,
Val