Easy and cute doll sweater for 18" dolls

 I have been doing quite a lot with knits lately.

• Not all knits work with all knit patterns
• Use a stretchiness guide
• An easy to sew neck band
• Finishing the seams
• The Published Pattern

Not all knits work with all knit patterns

There are so many different variations of knit fabrics.

It's difficult to make a design that will suit a range of knits. If you don't have the right knit the pattern doesn't work the way it's supposed to.

I stumbled across this cute sweater with a stuck on bow that I just had to try to replicate for the doll.

It's from Shein. I found it on Pinterest. 

I have a lot of fun trying to make a design suitable for an 18" doll to wear. I think the one I designed for my doll looks better than the people one.

I had several knit fabrics and I wanted to try them all with this design. The white one is t-shirt knit. A nice medium weight, not too flimsy.

The pink velour one is not very stretchy so I had to adjust the cuffs and the waist band to make the strip a bit longer. After making one I decided the waist band needed to be wider to look more in proportion with the thicker knit.

I also realised that I would have to make the cuff strip the same width as the wrist edge of the sleeve so it would go over the hand.

I tried a lycra one but it was just too thin and didn't look any good with the bow.

Use a stretchiness guide

Eventually I decided I needed a knit stretchiness guide so you would be able to choose the right pattern pieces for your knit. I wanted the pattern to work with more types of knits than t-shirt knit because the pretty knits I had were all over the place. You can just use a ruler but including the guide means you don't need to search for a ruler.

An easy to sew neck band

I called this design easy because the neckband fits perfectly and doesn't cause any trouble when you stretch it out to sew on. 

The method I use is perfect for those times when you don't want to use ribbing or you just don't have  matching ribbing. It works for all stretchiness types of knits as long as they are not ribbing.

I had a bit of trouble folding the neckband over the seam allowance with this knit. In hind sight I should have trimmed off a bit of the seam allowance across the centre front where the front panel sits.

I had to go over a bit of edge where my stitching missed. When you top stitch from the right side you can't see exactly what is going on behind.

I also decided not to trim any of the neck band after top stitching because this knit seems to unravel a bit when cut on the straight edge. I don't think it will make the garment any less hardy but it does look a bit messy on the band seams.

Finishing the seams

In the past when I sewed knits I would open the seam at the wrist and stitch it flat. I am over that now. I don't think it really makes any difference to the look on the doll. I guess it looks a bit clunky on the inside of the sleeve but I don't worry too much about staring at the insides of my garments. If you make  knit tops to sell your customer would have to be pretty finicky to complain about neatness or not on the inside. As long as it is finished as best as you can.

I have even stopped overlocking my seems because it add bulk and stiffness to a garment that spoils the look.

The narrow zig zag!

The other thing I always do when I sew knits is to use a very narrow zig zag stitch for all the seams and top stitching.

My 1/4" foot has a hole in it for the needle to go through and when I set my zig zag to 1mm I find that the needle still goes through the hole so I don't have to change feet.

I have also found that using the zig zag means I don't have to change to a special knits needle. I always use my regular needle for knits. The only time I might have trouble is with the very stretch lycra style knits. The ones that stretch in every direction.

The narrow zig zag allows the garment to stretch without breaking the threads.

I don't think it would allow enough stretch for the really stretchy fabrics. Dolls don't tend to put a lot of stress on their clothes though so it may be OK.

The Published Pattern

The Faux Bow Sweater is good for both Our Generation dolls and American Girl dolls.

I published this one in February 2023. 

VIP ladies will find it in the VIP Dropbox folder.

Everyone else can find it in my shop. Each time I publish a new pattern I put it on sale for that month so always check out the sale section in my shop.

Don't forget you can get 20% off with the code SAVE2020 if you put $20 or more Australian dollars in your cart. The $20 total is before tax.

If you don't already have the pattern for this sherpa beanie with ear flaps keep a look out in the free Doll Clothes Pattern Folder in Dropbox. I will be putting it up shortly. It will be No.35.

Happ Doll Dressmaking,

Val

Making up the knit tunic with a ribbing neckband

This knit tunic is a great design to quickly add something cute to your doll's wardrobe.

My fabric choice is a knit with an all over small design of Christmas cookies.

• I bought this from Spoonflower. There are so many gorgeous prints to choose from and even at full price it is good value to get a pattern that is not in the regular shops.

I chose the cotton knit which is so soft and light. Perfect for doll clothes. It is a regular knit with knit and pearl sides but because it is so soft it doesn't curl at the cut edges enough to cause a problem.

• I wanted to do a ribbing neck band so I cut myself a piece of ribbing 1 1/2" wide and 3/4 the length of the neckline. About 6 3/4".

I checked that my ribbing would comfortably stretch to the full 9" before cutting it. Not all ribbings are the same.

To sew it on fold it in half and put a pin at the centre. Find the centre of the neck on the dress and pin the band and the dress right sides together matching the centres.

You need to sew on the neck band after you do the shoulder seams of the bodice

Pin the band to the back edges then stretch out the band and pin it at the quarter position on the neck edge. You may need to pin at the eighth position too.

Lightly press the band away from the bodice so the seam allowance points down.

Top stitch close to the seam line on the right side so you sew the seam allowance to the bodice.

No need to overlock seam edges.

I did use a narrow zig zag stitch and an ordinary needle for this knit.

I sewed the back facings down with a straight stitch.

I added a head band using a scrap piece. It measures 3" x 12"

I sewed the seam with the strip right sides together then I turned it.

I centred the seam then stitched the back seam.

Back

Front

I made up the leggings with the ribbing. I probably could have taken a 1/2" or so out of the middle of the pattern piece since my ribbing is very stretchy.

Add some boots and she is ready to go.

I am a bit of a tea fanatic so I treated myself to this beautiful tea box from The Tea Centre.

I had some birthday money to spend. You can probably notice that I am a bit of a coffee fiend too.

If you want to make a knit tunic for your doll I used this pattern

You can get it from my Etsy shop here

Happy Doll Dressmaking,

Val

Free doll clothes patterns are great for all levels of doll dressmakers

A free pattern is a great way to get hooked on doll dressmaking.

And if you want to obsess about something then sewing doll clothes is not a bad thing.

Even if you can't sew very well and you can't alter pattern pieces if your life depended on it - 

you can get really into using ribbons and trims and buttons and ruffles and contrasting colours and amazing florals and that is just for starters. 

There is a world of fabrics and colours and styles that is waiting for someone to just like you to jump in and be creative.

If you are already into doll dressmaking then free patterns are feel good patterns that make you want to sew even more.

Free patterns are for newbies

If you are a newbie and want to start making doll clothes for your granddaughter's doll then free patterns are a no risk way to get some experience under your belt. The free patterns I create are set out just like my bought ones so it is easy to transition to more complex designs.

Free patterns are for doll dressmakers

If you are already great with your sewing machine then you can start your doll dressmaking journey with free patterns. You can create full outfits from the free patterns I offer. Make items in lots of colours and different combinations. Fill out your collection for your own dolls or get started with your doll clothes business with cute classics that everybody wants and rapidly build your sales numbers.

I dressed this one up with some appliqué.

Free patterns are for advanced doll dress makers

Once you are confident sewing doll clothes you can use free patterns get even more creative. The free patterns I offer are generally easy to sew and classic styles. There is a lot of room for customising with extra seams or ruching or trims or different methods of finishing neck and armholes.

The series of free petticoats is a treasure trove of advanced designs with lots of potential to add underwear to your dresses. Some are also perfect to make into dresses rather than petticoats.

You can read more about some of the free petticoats in these blog posts

Free patterns are for designers too

Maybe you are looking for some free designs to use as building blocks for more intricate designs that you are dreaming up. With just the fitted a-line skirt you can create yoked skirts, pleated skirts, skirts with pockets and skirts with extra seams for features.

The free petticoats are great for designing dresses too even without changing the pattern pieces. The styles are classics and varied so you can play with different designs knowing that you are starting with a pattern that fits.

I bet you are keen to know where I keep all my free patterns so you can get a-hold of them.

You can get instant access by clicking the link below.

If you are into doll dressmaking you should check out my You Tube channel for free step by step drafting instructions to create amazing designs from basic pattern pieces that you probably already have.

Happy Doll Dressmaking,

Val

5 Steps to create a masterpiece Doll clothes designing with no drafting - Gingham fashion hack

Are you looking for ways to save time and effort?

Do you wish you could design your own doll clothes but don't have hours and hours of drafting skills up your sleeve.

I'm always looking for more efficient ways to accomplish things. I made this pink dress from the pieces from 2 different patterns. No drafting required.

Step 1

One thing I love to do is scroll through all my Pinterest fashion images and select a design that I think will look good on the doll.

Step 2

Next I stare at the different pieces that make up the design and think about what patterns can I get those pieces from? Things like sleeves, collars, skirts, bodice shapes pockets and ruffles.

 

Step 3

Pull out the patterns and pick out the pieces I need. You can also bring up the files on your computer and print out the pages that you need.

 

Step 4

Work out what's missing and hope it is just some rectangles. Things like button bands or waist band features are just rectangles. Cut them a bit wider than you think you want because it is easy to try them out and trim them down.

 

Step 5

Make up your masterpiece using the instructions from the various patterns you cannibalised.

My latest masterpiece is this gingham dress with features that look great on the doll.

Step 1: I looked through Pinterest and found a little girls' dress that I liked.

Step 2: I analysed the features that made up the design.

Step 3: The features came from one 2 of my existing patterns. The 18" Dress and the 18" Gingham Midi Dress.

Step 4: The pieces I didn't have exactly were the waist band and the button band. Luckily these pieces are just rectangles cut to size.

• I judged the width of the waist band by eye and measured out a rectangle 2 1/4" x 7".
• I placed it on the bias and cut 1.
• I folded it in half lengthwise and pressed it.
• The waist band goes on the bodice after the collar sleeves and button band have been sewn into the bodice and before you sew the side seams.
• Stitch it to the waist edge of the main bodice front.
• Stitch it again close to the fold.

I've done a button band on other designs so I know what looks good.

• It needs to end up 5/8" wide.
• Cut the rectangle 2 1/2" x 6"
• Place it on the bias and cut 1.
• Fold it in half and press.
• Open it out and fold each side to the centre.
• Fold it again to make 4 layers with the raw edges enclosed.
• Open out one end and turn up 1/4" and press.
• Fold it back together again and press.
• Stitch down the open side, across the bottom and up the other side.

Step 5

• The button band is the first item to be basted to the neck of the main front bodice.
• I then added the collar as per the instructions of the 18" dress pattern.
• Then I added the sleeves as per the instructions of the Gingham Midi Dress. I transferred the sleeve placement dots to my 18" Dress bodice pattern pieces.
• You may have some preferences for what edges you sew first. I sewed the armhole edges first then checked that the sleeves were rolled enough not to get in the way of the neck edge.
• Use either the 18"Dress or the Gingham Midi dress instructions to do the lined bodice and side seams.

You can just see that I have understitched the collar and across the top of the button band.

That's why the button band is pinned down. I had to keep it straight.

I edge stitched the arm holes. So the stitching doesn't get in the way of sewing the side seams I start and finish about 1/4" from the side edge. Curve your line of stitching off the arm hole edge.

Leave the button band free of the bodice and out of the way while you sew the waist seam.

The skirt

I did the hem before the pockets.

Follow the pocket instructions for the Gingham Midi Dress.

• I folded the flap just a little bit further to make the pocket a fractions shorter to fit on the shorter skirt.
• I used the same placement measurements and placed the pockets 1 1/2" from the hem edge and 2" from the side edges.
• Because my rick rack was very narrow I didn't enclose it in the seams. I stitched it on top and tucked the ends behind the flap. They got stitched in place when I sewed on the pocket.

Some of my past fashion Files have been made into full pattern files and put in the shop. I won't be doing that anymore. I am spending my time creating the pattern hacks and writing them up for the shop.

I hope your next action will be to look in Pinterest for some cute design ideas and see what you can use from the patterns you already own.

Make sure you are signed up to the newsletter for access to lots of patterns and tutorials. There is another cute pocket in the Newsletter Patterns and Tutorials folder that would go well with this dress.

It's no. 4 in the folder.

   

Happy Doll Dressmaking,

Val

Doll clothes pattern hack -1837 Everyday Shirt Part 2

I thought it would be fun to simplify the 2 piece sleeve that comes with 1837. It's not much of a pattern hack.

I have used 2 little pleats at the wrist to fit the wrist edge of the sleeve onto the cuff.

I just put mine either side of centre. If you put them both at the back then you have to concentrate on making a left and right sleeve which makes it just as hard as the original 2 piece sleeve.

I also tried doing a bit of gather across the wrist edge but I don't think it looked nearly as good as the little pleats.

When you make up the shirt the sleeves are a fraction long but you need a bit of extra length so the doll can raise her arms.

Simple sleeve seam placket

Make the two piece sleeve into one piece by overlapping the seam line on the two pieces and pinning them together. I had to use my pen to stop the fan blowing it away. 

Preparing the sleeve seam allowance 

• Pink the seam allowances for each sleeve.
• Press in along the seam line halfway up the sleeve.
• Mark the centre of the wrist with a pin.

Pin on the cuff

• Mark the centre of the cuff with a pin.
• Press up one long side of the cuff and lay it right side down on the wrong side of the sleeve
• Pin it in the centre.
• Keep the seam allowances of the sleeve folded in.

Fit the sleeve to the cuff

• Pin the ends to the cuff so it extends 1/4" past the sleeve.
• Make tiny pleats at the wrist edge of the sleeve to make it fit the cuff and pin the pleats.

Stitch the cuff

• Press the seam towards the cuff

• Fold in the ends of the cuff.

• Fold the cuff in half and pin the turned under edge so it just covers the stitching line on the right side.

• To make life a bit easier I decided to stitch from the centre of the cuff to each end. The folds create several layers of fabric on the ends and my machine tends to get stuck.

Centre to one end.

• Turn it around and sew the other way to the other end.

Side seam

• With right sides together, match the back and front sides. 
• Measure up 2" from the wrist edge, including the cuff, and mark it by pinning the sides together here. Keep pinning, matching the underarm seams and the hem edges.

• Stitch the seam, remembering to stop 2" from the wrist.
• Pink the seam allowance up the shirt sides.

• Turn right side out and press the seams flat.
• Lap the front of the cuff over the back of the cuff. Use Velcro patches or snaps to secure it.

I love this shirt even more with the back yoke. I think the little hook loop gives it a "real shirt" look.

I finished the hem with the shirt tails. You get a template and instructions to make these in the pattern file.

I'm always happy to try new things with the patterns. Is there something in particular that would make a good pattern for the shirt hit reply in the newsletter or try me at valspierssews at gmail dot com.

Happy Doll Dressmaking,

Val