Sunday, November 8, 2015

Single Welt Pockets for Doll Clothes FF20

valspierssews
Such cute and easy pockets
Now for both 18" doll and 20" doll.

Fashion File 20 is welt pockets. These look so cute on doll clothes. The download contains a pictorial tutorial and the pattern pieces for the pocket. This post is a photo tutorial. Once you have made one you will see how easy it is to do.

I have made a few discoveries along the way.

Firstly, I lined up the top of my template where I wanted the pocket instead of placing the rectangle for the opening level with where I wanted the pocket so the pockets are a fraction too low on my mustard jeans.

Secondly, I cut out the slit before taking the paper template off thinking I needed the guide lines. The paper on top makes it hard to see exactly where you are cutting so take the paper off first. The slit and triangles are easy to work out without having lines to follow. Just make sure you stop and start the slit at least 1/2" from each end then cut longish triangles. You want them to extend into the seam allowance for later.

Now, let's get started.

Use the main paper pattern with the rectangle to position the pocket. I used a pin to mark the position. Place the fabric main piece in place.



Pin the paper pattern on top.



Using a shorter stitch than usual stitch around the rectangle. Start from the middle of the top and aim for just inside the line.




Fold the paper along the stitching lines to help remove it without stretching your stitches.







Cut a slit along the centre of the rectangle stopping 1/4" from each end to make the angle cuts to the corners.


Push and pull the pocket through the opening. Finger press the top edge and fold the bottom part of the pocket up, leaving the seam allowance down. Press.




On the wrong side fold  a pleat to make the welt. It should be just a fraction below the top of the opening.




Press it well. Top stitch around the rectangle. This is the easiest way to secure your welt. If you don't want any top stitching you need to go over the stitching on the inside between the pocket and the garment so it holds everything in place but doesn't show. I top stitched 3 sides but I think I will go for 4 next time. Just make sure you don't sew your pocket shut.




Top stitching around all four sides on this one.


On the inside, pin your lining to the pocket.




Start at the top edge and stitch to level with the end of the opening. Turn and stitch down the side stitching over the little triangle. In the picture I am stitching up the fourth side just about to stitch over the triangle.



This pattern makes a nice deep pocket. 


For a waist coat make the pocket smaller by folding the main piece in half to make the pocket lining after top stitching the welt. Start stitching the lining to the pocket at the fold and go up the side, across the top and down the other side.

If you want a smaller welt just draw a smaller rectangle inside the one on the pattern.

If you want to use a bulky coat fabric you will need to stitch around the rectangle just outside the line to make the opening big enough to show a decent welt.

You can also put the welt at and angle on a coat or bomber jacket.

You really must give the welt pocket a go. It is not any harder than a patch pocket and looks very cool.

Make sure you like my Facebook page so you know when I make something new. I'm always playing with the patterns to make new fashion files.


Happy Sewing,
Val