Sunday, February 26, 2017

1857 Photo Tutorial for the Tricky Bits

Note: 1857 will be published soon.

I thought it might make things bit easier if I explained a few things with photos and add in a few tips to make the construction go smoothly. The side seams are halfway down the page.

When I sew the bodice and lining pieces I always lay the backs on the table with rights sides up.

I then place the front right side down lining up one shoulder. I pin it without picking it up. I place the pin parallel to the edge so it won't twist out of place when I pick it up.

Place the front on top of the other back, pin and stitch. This method is good for fabrics that don't have  different sides. Everything ends up in the right place.

Press the shoulder seams open. It is a good idea to crease the hem edge on the back pieces at the same time. Pin the bodice and lining right sides together with not too many pins. Pin and stitch the back edges and the neck.

Pin and stitch one armhole. Pin and stitch the second armhole.

Trim the seams. I clip off the corners of the back neck as I do this. Clip the curves every 1/4".

Turn it through the front. This takes a few minutes.

I use a knitting needle to push out the corners at the back neck.

Use you thumb nails and fingers to get it ready for pressing.

Press it well.

To do the side seams

Open out the back side edges. Open out the front side edges and match the front bodice and lining to the back bodice and lining, right sides together.

The hem edge of the bodice back extends 1/4" past the front. It gets turned in later.

Stitch the seam. Press it towards the back. Fold the bodice and linings together at the side seams.

Fold under the rest of the back side seam allowance.

Turn the hem edges to the inside and pin.

Stitch the side and hem edges closed close to the edges.

Top stitch around the back edges and neck and the armholes.

You may need a pusher to get around the back neck corners. See my blog post about my DIY pusher.

It is all done now except for the back closure. See my blog post on how I do my velcro.

Happy Sewing,