Friday, February 13, 2015

Roll up Sleeve with a Tab. Tutorial for my shirt pattern.

I have been updating parts of my Snugfit Elaine Open Neck Blouse pattern and wanted to try another way to make the roll up sleeve. I wanted to make it so you wouldn't see any seams when you rolled up the sleeve. Extra sleeve pattern pieces are now included in the purchased pattern.

I also tried out my pointed pocket pattern.
I used the pattern pieces from DD 1406 Snugfit Elaine to make this shirt.
There is a link to this tutorial in the pattern you purchase.

A note about machine needles.
Before trying to topstitch my pocket or the tab, I put in a new machine needle. I normally sew with a universal size 80 but for the tiny pieces I use a sharp needle size 75. I do have some Sharps but only in size 80 and 70 so I used a Quilting needle because they are also sharp.

If you want a pocket you should put it on before stitching the shoulder seams. I always forget and have to do it with the shirt half finished. (I should follow my own instructions!)
Fiddly but worth the effort even if you don't get it perfect.

Here's the pocket since you should do that before the sleeves.

I cut one main and one contrast (for one pocket)
Put them right sides together and stitch with a 1/8" seam leaving most of one straight side open for turning. I folded both seam allowances away from the gap and pressed them before turning.

Carefully push out the corners and point and press. Fold the flap down and stitch across the top edge then across the point edge, back stitching at each of the ends.

I placed the pattern piece under my shirt front and I could see the pocket placement outline through the fabric. Pin the pocket in place. Stitch around the sides and bottom.

For the tab sleeves.
Put in the upper sleeve but don't sew the side seam. See Pattern instructions View 2 Sleeves.

A note about little pleats in your sleeve seam.

It is hard to get the sleeve seam smooth. You need to use your left hand between the fabric layers to move the shirt as you sew, pushing it away from you to straighten it out.
If you do get a pleat...

Snip the stitch holding the pleat and a few either side. Smooth out the pleat and restitch just that section. Back stitch at each end of your stitching.

Make the tabs. See Pattern instructions View 2 Sleeves.

Cut the tabs from contrast fabric. (I used one main and one contrast because I had already cut one out of the main fabric before I decided to use a contrast.)

For this method you need to trim the tab to 2" on the straight side.



Press the lower sleeve in half.
Turn under 1/4" on one long side of the lower sleeve.

Pin the tab on the wrong side of the upper sleeve in the centre.

Turn it over and pin the lower sleeve on top. Right sides together.

Stitch, then press the seam towards the lower sleeve.

Pin the sleeve and side seams right sides together and stitch.

Press the seam open.

Fold the lower sleeve in half so the turned in edge covers the seam. Hand stitch it in place.

Turn the shirt right side out.
Fold up the cuff once just a 1/4" from the seam line. Press.

Fold it over again so the seam line is hidden. Fold the tab over and pin in place.

Sew a button on the tab.

So cute!

Happy Sewing,