Wednesday, October 12, 2016

Flat Felled Centre Front Seam for 18" Doll Clothes A-Line Skirt

That title is a mouthful! It could be longer because I also use my braiding foot.

Many of you downloaded my free A-line Skirt for 18" dolls from Facebook. My Facebook Page is the only place you will find this pattern. You will have to scroll down to September 10 2016.

There is so much you can do with an A-line skirt. This first variation is a simple one. I have made a seam down the centre front.

Valspierssews doll clothes

I recently purchased a set of machine feet as well as 2 flat felling feet so I have done a flat felled seam on the front of this denim weight design. My biggest flat felled foot is only 6mm so it only just worked with my light denim fabric. The trick is getting the second step fold into the foot.

Even though my denim is light weight it is still quite a bit thicker than shirt cotton so I am using the denim fabric pattern pieces for this skirt.

To make a flat felled seam you need to cut a 1/4" seam allowance on the left side front. The pattern piece is face up.

You then cut a 1/2" seam allowance for the right hand front. The pattern piece is face down.

If you just want a regular seam cut two front pieces with the extra 1/4" seam allowance.

Make sure you keep track of which edge is the centre front and which piece is left or right.

Using the 6mm flat felling foot line up the centre fronts, make a few stitches, then put the first fold into the foot. Stitch to the end.

Press the fold flat. Stitch it in place for a few stitches then fit the fold into the foot. I struggled a bit because the fabric was thickish. I had to pull pretty hard to the get the fold lying flat.

Keep going as for the regular skirt. However, because the fabric is quite thick I overlocked the waist band edge instead of turning it under. I stitched the waist band and skirt right sides together so my overlocked edge turned towards the inside.

I did the hem. THEN.... I used my braiding foot.
This is one of the feet that came in my box of 32 feet.

I had to adjust the screw to make the slot as wide as possible. I could just fit in my 3/8" ribbon.

I drew a line 1" from the hem as a guide.

It wasn't as straight forward as I would have liked. After sewing half way I saw the skirt was puckering and had to unpick it. It may have been a function of my extra wide and extra long stitch.
To fix it I loosened the tension to 1. The lowest I can go apart from 0. With a firm hand on the the skirt as it sewed it seemed to work OK. 
The perfect alignment of the stitching on the ribbon was a dream. I will be using this foot more often.

I used the wavy running stitch with top thread to match the ribbon. I didn't want the stitching to be a feature. You can see it on the inside.

I am drafting the skirt for the Australian Girl Doll at the same time I am writing this up. I love working on more than one thing at a time. I will sew it soon and post it on my Facebook Page.

I love how this skirt turned out. I also love the top she has on. It might be time to publish the pattern for it. I just want to add some applique ideas on some plain fleece first.

Happy Sewing,