I love creating new doll clothes from the patterns I have. You can save buying lots of new patterns if you want to have a go.
If making changes to patterns is not your thing you can buy the pattern for these cute ski pyjamas in my Etsy shop.
I bought a winter nightie from the children's department of K-mart and made my latest version of the ski pyjamas. These ones I made with the new pattern.
You can get the pattern in my Etsy shop
This is one of the patterns from past months of the VIP Membership
The pink ski pyjamas are made from a pattern for gathered pull-on trousers and a long sleeve t-shirt pattern.
You can use this turtleneck pattern from my shop
and this trousers pattern
I describe what I did to create the ski pyjamas from these 2 patterns.
While drafting new patterns from my basic slopers I find myself thinking about outfits I could make with hardly any changes to the pieces in patterns I have already published.
Sometimes they just need a few tweeks like making a piece shorter or narrower. I have been experimenting a fair bit with ribbing bands and have found that the look of a garment depends so much on getting the bands the right width and tightness.
Here I have have made some cute ski pyjamas for my doll using my T-shirt pattern 1801 Classic Knit Tops and my pull on pants pattern 1813 Gathered Pull-ons.
Top
Using pieces 1, 2 and 4 from 1801 Module 2 and the bands listed below.
Bands:
- Neck band is 1” x 7 1/2”
- Cuff at wrist is 1 1/2” x 4”
- Waist band is 2” x 13 1/2”
Stitch all the seams with a narrow zig zag stitch.
Stitch the shoulder seams.
Put on the neck band.
Put the cuffs on the sleeves.
Put in the sleeves.
Stitch the side seams.
Add the bottom band. Make sure 13 1/2” gives you the right amount of stretch. It depends on your particular ribbing how long you need to make it. You want it to gather up the bodice a bit after you sew it and it tends to all stretch a bit a s you sew. It is probably better to over stretch a bit than to under stretch. Also, the beauty of stitching with just a zig zag rather than a serger means you can unpick to adjust the band if you don’t like the way it sits.
Match the centre of band and bodice.
I decided to take off another 1/4” at each end making it 13” altogether.
Stretch the band. Hold it with one hand and pin it with the other
This shows how my ribbing just gathers the bodice a bit.
Top stitch close to the seam. I use the little notch in my machine foot to keep it even 1/16" from the seam.
Fold the back facing in 1/2” and stitch in pace.
Add 3 velcro patches to the back.
Pants
Using pieces for the boxer shorts view 4 from 1813 Gathered Pull-ons
- Cuff at ankle is 2” x 4 1/2”
With your boxer pieces taped together.
Fold up the hemline to the short longs length.
Measure 1 1/2” from the join to one side and rule a line down.
Crease along this line then fold it to the join line to make a pleat. Pin the pleat in place.
This makes the PJ pants tighter than boxers but not as tight as leggings.
Cut out two of these narrower pieces. Remember to put a pin on the back edge of each piece.
Put the cuffs on the ankles.
Stitch the inseam of each leg.
Put one leg inside the other so they are right sides together. Stitch the crotch seam from the front to just past the inseam.
If you are using 1/2” elastic fold the casing over 3/4” and stitch close to the edge first then again 1/8” from the fold.
I didn't overlock the edge this time. I think I like the overlocked edge more, because it adds some firmness to the casing.
Insert the elastic with a safety pin. Stitch across each end. Finish the back seam.
If you are using 1/4” elastic trim off the waist edge by 5/8” first. Fold the casing over a 1/2”. I used 1/4" elastic this time.
Put the legs inside each other again and finish the back seam. Stitch across the open seam to hold it flat at the waist.
You can download a text mainly PDF of this tutorial here. Print it out and keep it with your pattern pieces.
Happy Doll Dressmaking,
Val