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| 50s doll clothes slim dress and crop jacket. |
There are some parts of sewing in the lining that just don't lend themselves to diagrams so I have made a photo tutorial. This tutorial focuses on inserting the lining only. The rest of the jacket instructions come with my pattern along with a link to this photo tutorial.
*The pattern is not yet published but it is very close. Look out for 1828 and 1829.
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Getting Started
- Stitch together any front or back pieces and complete the fronts and back.
- Stitch together the shoulder seams.
- Stitch in the sleeves.
- Using the sleeve pattern piece press up the main sleeve hem to make a crease.
Where to stitch first
- Line up the main and lining pieces with right sides together.
- Match the fronts and pin.
- Match the shoulder seams and centre back seam and pin.
- Match the rest of the neckline and pin.
- Match the wrist edges of the main sleeve and lining and pin.
- Stitch across the bottom front, around the neckline and across the other bottom front. Back stitch at each end.
- Stitch across each sleeve hem edge. Back stitch at each end.
- Trim the seam allowances and clip the neck curve every 1/4".
- Turn the jacket through so it is right sides out.
- Press all the seams.
Stitching the Side Seams
- Fold one side of the jacket so it is inside out.
- Push the lining out of the way and pin the main fabric right sides together from the wrist edge of the lining to the seam line at the front. The back main fabric extends 1/2" past the front seam line.
- Sew this section. Press it open as best you can.
- Continuing on from where you started stitching before, pin the sleeve lining edges together and the front and back lining side seams. You end up with a strange looking tube.
- Start stitching from the wrist edge and finish at the front seam line. Your 1/2" back hem section will need to be stitched separately.
- Press the seam open.
Turning and Finishing
- Turn the jacket right side out and you will see a tunnel where the sleeve should be.
- Pull the main sleeve out through the tunnel so the lining follows.
- With a bit of luck your hem line crease will still be there so the sleeve pulls through to the crease and stops.
- If you are not sure, line up the lining and main armhole seams and wiggle the sleeve again or measure the turn up inside the wrist. It should be 1/2".
- Press it all. Probably a bit steam would be good now.
- Turn the 1/2" back lining and main hems to the inside and machine or hand stitch to close the opening.
This is not meant to be full instructions for a jacket. It only shows how to put the lining in.
If you want to make an unlined jacket into a lined jacket you will need to cut main and lining from the front and back pieces. You will have to adjust the sleeve pattern. If the main sleeve has a 1/4" hem allowance cut the fabric 5/8" longer than the pattern. For the lining cut the fabric 5/8" shorter than the pattern. This gives you a 1/2" 'facing' at the wrist.
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