Thursday, May 26, 2016

Matching my gathered skirt to the design I am making

After making the spotty gathered skirt I decided to match it a bit better to the design I am trying to recreate.



I am using this image from my Pinterest board as inspiration. I love the style that the combination of shirt, skirt, tie and jacket produce. I may even make the cap.



Just a few variations on the spotty skirt.

  1. I made the yoke strip a bit longer so it gathers a bit more.
  2. I made the yoke strip wider so I could fold it over like a lining to cover the skirt seam.
  3. I made the skirt strip in one piece because I had more fabric this time.
  4. I made the skirt strip a bit narrower to compensate for the wider yoke.



  • Cut out the yoke 4 1/4" x 15"
  • Cut out the skirt 3 1/2" x 24"



  • Overlock the hem edge of the skirt.
  • Press over the 1/4" hem but don't stitch it yet.



  • Fold the yoke in half lengthwise and press to crease.


  • Press over 1/4" on one long edge of the yoke.






  • Stitch gathering rows on the skirt. Leave tails at each end.






  • Put a pin at the centre then gather from each side to the centre. Pull up each side to about 7".



  • Match the ends of the yoke and skirt and pin at each end.


  • Pull up the gathers to fit and tie off each end.


  • Evenly distribute the gathers.


  • Separate the yoke and skirt.



  • With right sides together stitch the centre back seam of the skirt. Overlock the seam allowance. Press to one side.


  • With the yoke opened out and right sides together stitch the centre back seam with a short stitch length.


  • Press the seam open.





  • Place the yoke inside the skirt. Right side of yoke to wrong side of skirt.





  • Stitch the seam.


  • Trim the seam.


  • Press the seam towards the yoke.



  • Fold the yoke in half so the folded in edge just covers the skirt seam.





  • Turn the skirt inside out. Stitch close to the seam along the yoke to secure it.





  • Stitch the casing rows 1/8" from the fold then 5/8" from the fold.





  • Snip open the casing at the seam inside the waist.





  • Thread 10" of 1/4" elastic. Overlap about 1/2" and stitch with a zig zag stitch to join.








  • Ease the join back into the casing.


  • Close the slit with a narrow zig zag stitch.





  • Stitch the hem.







It is difficult to see the details in black but this cut in shoulder shirt with the collar and stand will be out soon in the Boy Friend Shirt pattern 1833. I will also be publishing the 2033 version at the same time.

Look out for the free tie pattern soon too.

Happy Sewing,
Val