How to sew a doll skirt with a waist band

A friend of mine asked me if I would make an outfit for her vintage doll to replace the original clothes the doll came dressed in. You know how it is. The clothes were just gone.

If you think you are ready to move onto making a gathered skirt with a waist band I am slotting this blog post ahead of more elastic waist variations because I promised to dress the vintage doll.

I have quite a few skirt patterns in my Etsy shop. I have yet to publish them in my Aussie shop. Just let me know if there is something you want me to upload.

I love these vintage suspender skirts

Make sure you check out this tutorial for the Glitter Girl gathered skirt HERE.

And you can find lots more about designing a gathered skirt in this blog post HERE
Also you can join my free resources library.

How to sew a gathered skirt for your doll

The skirt part

This doll is about 14" tall so I am going to use the same size skirt that I made for the Glitter Girl because that amount of width at the hem looks good on this doll too.
I am cutting the skirt strip 4 1/2" x 24". I ended up using the same pattern piece that I used for the netting in this skirt HERE

If I was making the skirt for my:

• 18" dolls I would cut the skirt strip 6" x 30"
• 19" Gotz Hannah doll I would cut 6" x 30"
• 20" Australian Girl Doll I would cut 6 1/2" x 30"

This allows for a waist seam of a good 1/4" and a hem of a good 1/4".

I say 'good' because I find that you always need a bit more to cover the gathering threads and you always cut a fraction off when you overlock the hem edge.

Skirt Pieces

Overlock the back facing edges.

Overlock the hem edge and turn up a 1/4" hem.

Press in the back facing about a 1/2".

The waist band

Just remember that the thicker your fabric the longer the waist band needs to be.

My waist band will enclose the waist seam and overlap by 1/2" at the centre back.

This means I need to measure the doll's waist then add 1/2" for the overlap as well as another 3/4" for the seams on each end. I say 3/4" because it always seems to work out as a bit more than a 1/4" overhang at the backs when you pin on the waist band. If you want the skirt to go over a blouse or T-shirt you should measure the doll's waist over the blouse or shirt or add an extra 1/8" on a small doll and closer to 1/4" for big dolls.

The vintage doll waist is a bit less than 8 1/2" so I am going to use 8 1/2" + 1/2" +3/4" = 9 3/4 for my waist band strip.

Because the doll is small I will use a 3/8" finished width for my waist band. For bigger dolls I would use 1/2" finished width. If your fabric is thicker than light cotton or polycotton you should allow an extra 1/4" for folding the seams into the waist band.

Press in a 1/4" on one long side of the waist band.

Pin the right side of the waist band to the wrong side of the skirt.

Keep the back facings folded in and extend the ends of the waist band 1/4" past the skirt backs.

Stitch then trim the seam a bit. Press the waist band up towards the seam.

Fold in the ends of the waist band then....

Fold the turned under edge to the front and stitch it down. I use a small patch of hook and loop at the waist in the back.

I now have a skirt pattern I like for this doll. I will be making the outfit skirt next.

If you are looking for patterns for various skirts for various sized dolls you should look out for my Pattern Club opening soon.

New Pattern Club Coming Soon

I am starting up a membership site in the next few months. I already have a few patterns in place and I have 3 great new patterns lined up for the first month's instalment. I will be opening the enrolment for 10 days only. Founding members will have the lowest price of $10USD/month. Every six months over a couple of years I will be opening membership with an increased price. The final subscription fee for a huge pattern resource and continuing new additions will be around $20USD

If you don't want to miss out on the sign up period click the link below and leave your email address. (This is a separate list from my newsletter)

Sign up to be notified when the Valspierssews Pattern Club is open to join

I will still be adding free resources to my Resource Library at dolldressmaking.teachable.com 
If you are not already signed up you should check it out.

Happy Doll Dressmaking,

Val

How to sew a doll skirt for 18" American Girl dolls

While researching and sewing for the doll skirts blog posts I came across this old post. I have updated the post. I thought it would also be a good time to revisit the free apron I included in the newsletter last year. You can find it in the Doll Accessories Section in the Free Resource Library

Skirt Length

The skirt looks best with the waistband a bit above the waistline. You need to add 1/2" to each of the skirt lengths listed. 1/4" for the waist seam and 1/4" for the hem. Finished skirt lengths that I like are:

4" for a cute dolly look. (high gather for a Betsy McCall look)

5" for a nice party dress or day dress and a more demure look.

7" for midi skirts and a casual look. (at least mid gather)

9" + shoe height for ankle length just above the floor. (at least mid to high gather)

9 1/2" + shoe height just skims the floor. (at least mid to high gather)

Remember, you need to add 1/4" or 1/2" for the waist seam and 1/4", 3/8" or 1/2" for a hem.

Skirt Width

There are 3 widths of skirt that work well depending

on how much gather you want. I have also found that 

the longer the skirt the more width you need to get 

the right look.

Short skirt/low gather 24" wide

The 4" skirt and the 5" skirt are as long as I would go when using a 24" width for gathering. This little blue skirt is cut in 2 6 1/2" wide pieces that i stitched at the side seams. You can see how to make this skirt HERE

Knee and just below/mid gather 30" wide

This is my usual skirt length and skirt width. I find that 36" for a knee length skirt is just a bit too flouncy. My 1804 pattern has the skirt pattern pieces for the front and the back so you can fit it onto a fat quarter. A 30" gather means you save 6"on trims too. 

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Read more about the 1804 dress pattern here. or go straight to Etsy

Just one of the many variations for 1804 dress pattern

Long floor length/high gather 36" to 40" wide

The longer the skirt the wider you want it to be at the hem. Floor length skirts are OK at 30" wide but 36" is better.

This dress pattern along with the princess dress are not published.
I took them down to rewrite the instructions. They will go back up one day.

Long floor length/super high gather 50" wide (Not for the faint hearted. You have to pull up the fabric as much as it goes to get the right width.)

I have only tried 50"once. I used satin fabric for a princess dress and had so much trouble trying to pull it up enough. The gathers also create a lot of thickness so I had to make my waist band about 13" to get it all to fit on the doll. I ended up not liking the skirt as much as the one on the witch.

If you want to make an economical, easy to sew, great looking skirt go for a 24" x 5 1/2" rectangle with a 12" to 12 1/2" Waistband. If you want the skirt and waist band to overlap by a 1/2" you need to fold your fabric to mimic the waist band then wrap it around the doll and any shirt you want to tuck in. The overlap needs to be 1". You can see how I check the waist band length HERE. 

Waist Band Ease

The wider the skirt (more gathers) or the thicker your fabric the more ease you need in the waistband.

A cut length between 12" and 12 1/2" fits on a 30" gathered skirt so the skirt can be worn over a shirt or t-shirt. Check that the cut length fits around your doll and any tops to tuck in, with a 1" overlap. The super high gather waistband is 1" longer at 13".

The thickness the fabric you are tucking into the skirt also has to be considered. A T-shirt needs more ease than a lawn blouse.

An all purpose 12 1/2" waistband will be my "go to" waistband for my skirts now because I like to mix and match and never know which tops I want to tuck in or how much underwear she will have on. The width is a matter of taste but 3/8" to 1/2" finished width is a good look.
Remember that thicker fabric requires a longer and a wider waist band.

Free Patterns

You can add to your skirt experience by downloading a free apron accessory pattern from the Valspierssews Resource Library

An apron is a perfect accessory because you can create cute, whimsical, romantic, vintage, cooking or themed outfits by just adding an apron in the right fabric.

(The link is to a bundle. I am still testing out the Teachable site. If you have enrolled in the separate sections I am not sure that enrolling in the bundle is necessary. Get onto me at valspiers@dolldressmaking.com if there is any problem or confusion.)

Find your free apron pattern to download in the Doll Size Accessories section of my Free Resource Library.

Get free patterns now

Happy Doll Dressmaking,

Val

Gathered skirts are perfect for dolls: Part 1 - Inspiration Overload!

Gathered skirts are easy to make and don't have to be plain or boring. Here I describe some of the exciting styles that you can quickly make for your doll without a pattern

Just a few styles for you to get started with are:

1. The rectangle with a fold over elastic casing
2. The rectangle with a sewn on casing.

This petticoat has the top tier with a fold over casing. I just overlocked the top edge and folded the casing over. This one has a centre back seam that makes threading the elastic and finishing really easy.

This skirt has a sewn on waist band that matches the skirt.

I also love this one with the contrast waist band.

3. The sewn on casing opens the door to other styles like ones with pockets built in. 

4. You can have the casing as one long piece or give it side seams to fit in sashes that tie in front or in back. You can have a fitted waist band or an elastic waist band.

5. Ones with panels in the skirt are great for adding pockets that just sew right into the seams.

6. Try ones with panels in the casing so you can have the sash starting in from the side seams. Make the tie narrow and cross it over at the back and tie in the front

Any of the styles can have:

• Growth pleats in the skirt for decoration

• A contrast band sewn to the bottom either single with a hem or folded and double

• or contrast binding sewn to the hem edge
• or a ruffle of any width to make a tier or a border

• What about knit fabrics and ribbing for a waist band. You can have narrow ribbing or wide so it folds over like yoga pants waistbands. You can have a tight skirt or a gathered skirt.

• Then there are endless embellishment ideas. I will have to leave them for another post I think. You can see some great ideas for braids, bows and applique in the examples I have already included.

All of these designs can be easily made into doll clothes skirts. You can see more inspiration on my Gathered Skirts Board. You can make skirts with shaped waist bands or belts and belt loops. I love the ones with the top of the casing made to show as a feature.

In Part 2 I look at how you can determine the waist band for different dolls, what elastic width and length is most suitable and what length sashes and belts work best. Also, how to make belt loops.

In Part 3 I show you how to make some of the different styles.

If you like free stuff you should check out my Free Resources at dolldressmaking.teachable.com
Just sign up to see all the free sections.

Happy Doll Dressmaking,
Val

Matching my gathered skirt to the design I am making

After making the spotty gathered skirt I decided to match it a bit better to the design I am trying to recreate.

I am using this image from my Pinterest board as inspiration. I love the style that the combination of shirt, skirt, tie and jacket produce. I may even make the cap.

Just a few variations on the spotty skirt.

1. I made the yoke strip a bit longer so it gathers a bit more.
2. I made the yoke strip wider so I could fold it over like a lining to cover the skirt seam.
3. I made the skirt strip in one piece because I had more fabric this time.
4. I made the skirt strip a bit narrower to compensate for the wider yoke.

• Cut out the yoke 4 1/4" x 15"
  
• Cut out the skirt 3 1/2" x 24"

• Overlock the hem edge of the skirt.
  
• Press over the 1/4" hem but don't stitch it yet.

• Fold the yoke in half lengthwise and press to crease.

• Press over 1/4" on one long edge of the yoke.

• Stitch gathering rows on the skirt. Leave tails at each end.

• Put a pin at the centre then gather from each side to the centre. Pull up each side to about 7".

• Match the ends of the yoke and skirt and pin at each end.

• Pull up the gathers to fit and tie off each end.

• Evenly distribute the gathers.

• Separate the yoke and skirt.

• With right sides together stitch the centre back seam of the skirt. Overlock the seam allowance. Press to one side.

• With the yoke opened out and right sides together stitch the centre back seam with a short stitch length.

• Press the seam open.

• Place the yoke inside the skirt. Right side of yoke to wrong side of skirt.

• Stitch the seam.

• Trim the seam.

• Press the seam towards the yoke.

• Fold the yoke in half so the folded in edge just covers the skirt seam.

• Turn the skirt inside out. Stitch close to the seam along the yoke to secure it.

• Stitch the casing rows 1/8" from the fold then 5/8" from the fold.

• Snip open the casing at the seam inside the waist.

• Thread 10" of 1/4" elastic. Overlap about 1/2" and stitch with a zig zag stitch to join.

• Ease the join back into the casing.

• Close the slit with a narrow zig zag stitch.

• Stitch the hem.

It is difficult to see the details in black but this cut in shoulder shirt with the collar and stand will be out soon in the Boy Friend Shirt pattern 1833. I will also be publishing the 2033 version at the same time.

Look out for the free tie pattern soon too.

Happy Sewing,
Val