Saturday, April 7, 2018

Easy Designing without Drafting with Valspierssews: Fashion File 29


I love creating new designs with the pattern pieces from more than one pattern.

If that is not your thing you can purchase the pattern and instructions in my shop.

I call the process "Easy Designing without Drafting"

It is OK sometimes to make things from scratch but most of the time I like to mix and match fashion elements from different patterns. That way I know it is going to fit.

This is how I made my Easter Dress and Daisy Dress.

You will need:

  • the pleated puffy sleeve from 1810
  • the sleeve band from 1810
  • the bodice from the line dress in 1804
  • the cut down peter pan collar from the unlined dress in 1804
  • a strip for the skirt 33" long x 8 3/4" wide or 2 backs 9" x 8 3/4" and one front 16" x 8 3/4"
  • 2 strips 15" x 2" for the sash ties
Using the same fabric for the lining you will need 19" of 45" wide fabric.

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Sleeve Pleats

  • Crease the pattern piece along the pleat fold lines.

  • To make the sleeve pleats mark the fold lines on each side of the sleeve. 

  • Add a pin or two as a guide in the middle.

  • Press to fold them then stitch 1/4" away from the fold across the sleeve so you make a 1/4" pleat. Sew the second pleat. 

  • Press them down.
When the pleats are completed:
  • Gather the bottom edge of the sleeve and put on the band. See 1810 or 1804
  • Complete the lined bodice with the collar. See 1804
  • Gather the top of the sleeve and stitch it to the bodice.

Sash Ties

  • Make the sash ties by pressing the strips in half. 
  • Open them out and press in 1/4" along both long edges. 
  • At one end open out the seam allowance and fold it right sides together.
  • Trim the end to a slight angle.
  • Stitch the last inch and across the end.
  • Turn it and press it then stitch down the open side across the end and up the folded side. 
  • Place the raw end of the sash tie in the side seam of the bodice 1/4" up from the waist edge so it doesn't get sewn into the waist seam. Baste them both in place then stitch the side seams.

Growth Pleats

  • I am using the pattern pieces from FF29 Kit.
  • I like side seams to help adjust the gathering.

  • Crease the fold lines on the pattern pieces.

  • Mark the growth pleat folds lines using the pattern pieces 
  • Or measure up 2 1/2" and 4 3/8" from the bottom edge and mark the fold lines.
  • Use a few pins to mark across the middle.

  • Fold each one and press it.
Before stitching the growth pleats
  • Overlock the hem edge of the skirt and the back edges.
  • Press up 1/2" hem and stitch by hand or with the blind hem stitch.
  • Stitch the growth pleats 1/2" from the fold. Press the pleats down.
  • Gather and sew on the skirt. See 1804
  • Stitch the growth pleats 1/2" from the fold.

  •  Press the pleats down.


Complete the rest of the dress.
  • Gather and sew on the skirt. See 1804
This is an easy project. You just need a bit more time to measure and sew the pleats.
Once you realise that Easy Designing without Drafting is a great way to expand your design collection you will be creating up a storm.

If you like the idea of just getting all the pattern pieces and the instructions in a neat kit you can
buy FF29 in my shop.

Happy Sewing,

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