3 Suggestions to Vary the Princess Line Doll Clothes Dress 1843: Part 2

Don't you just love ruffles! All the Princess Line Dresses are perfect for adding ruffles or trims and ties. If you have an 8 panel dress pattern it shouldn't be a big leap to draft some of the designs below.

1. You can make the two centre panels into one
2. You can split your single front panel down the middle and and create a button down front by adding a front facing
3. You can reduce the flare so it looks more A-line as well as add more seams, gathered sections, colour blocks. 

The 8 panel style offers great potential for many different looking designs. If you are interested in discussion on designing and drafting please come along to my Facebook group.

Dresses with 1 Central Panel

Some of the princess line designs only have three panels in the front. What I would do to make the two front panels into one is trim the seam allowance off the centre front seam line on the pattern pieces. Then lie them up together and work out what needs to be done with the centre flare. You don't want to just cut it out all together because it will change the shape of the dress front but not the back.

I suggest cutting some of the flare out of the centre front then increasing the flare on the sides of the centre panel as well as increasing the flare a fraction on the side panels. Fold the new centre panel in half and cut the neckline how you want. 

You can make some styles like this:

 1930's

 1940's

 1940's

Dresses with a Button Down Front

If you want to create one of the variations that has buttons all down the front. I suggest that you cut a front facing piece using the front piece as a guide. Just don't forget that you need to overlap the fronts this time so you need to add 1/4" to extend the centre front piece at the centre front seam only. Copy it then use the copy to create the facing.

I really like the ones with the scalloped fronts.

Here are some examples of button down versions:

1940's

1940's

1940's

You would need to keep the back opening for this one and
add extensions for the front placket.

Many of the A-line designs from the 60s use the princess line.

It is probably easier to use an A-line dress to create the panelled A-line designs. You can use the curved side seam of the princess line dress 1843 to shape the A-line in at the waist a bit if you like.
This one looks like it shapes in at the waist. You can do the top part of the bodice with an add-on yoke rather than sew it as a seam.

This one also shapes in at the waist just a bit.

This one is a simple A-line with straight panels. Not princess line because it doesn't shape in at the waist but the panels look great.

There are also variations that have an extra piece as a yoke at the top and gathers below. It wouldn't be too hard to cut the centre panel then add 3 or 4 inches to the centre front edge of the panel.

From what I have read, you draw the grain lines of the panel perpendicular to the Centre front and centre back lines. In the next instalment I will be showing you step by step how I create one of these designs from dress pattern 1843.

See Part 1introducing the Princess Line, and

Part 3 a tutorial on how to vary pattern 1843

Happy Doll Dressmaking,

Val

Why my petticoat pattern is worth having!

So you have seen the preview and you're thinking that petticoat looks pretty simple. It should be free. I could make that with one hand behind my back.

Yes, the design concept is simple. Just like a dress but the bodice is cut off.

What makes my pattern worth having is the fact that it takes the guess work out of your sewing.

By getting the pattern you can gayly make petticoats from your nice fabrics and be 99% sure that it will fit and look great. ( I can't control all the variables)

With this pattern you get step by step instructions for a method that works.

No need to think about making it work for the dress patterns you already have. Just line up your dress skirt with the petticoat skirt page before cutting out the petticoat skirt pattern pieces and you can adjust the length easily.  (The waist line of this petticoat sits about 1/4" above the doll label at the narrowest part of the waist)

Here I am using the knee length skirt for the waist level dress in 1804.

There is no need to experiment with strap lengths or skirt fullness. You can see what it will look like from my samples.

This is the knee length high waist dress from 1804. My waist style petticoat with the knee length skirt fits under perfectly.

I have 5 years experience making doll clothes and though I don't know it all yet I can help ease some of the pain when you need to get a cute outfit done fast. You have a much greater chance to "get it right the first time" if you follow a patten.

Happy Sewing,
Val

1813 Gathered Pull-ons Doll Clothes Pattern by Valspierssews

Proudly presenting my Updated Gathered Pull-ons

I first put this pattern together in 2015. Being only no.13 it is one of my first patterns. The instruction format has changed dramatically since I first published it.

I started out doing instructions that were only meant to be read on the screen. They looked like this...

Then I changed to diagrams and instructions that could easily be printed but my sewing steps were still a bit unskilled I suppose. I was trying things that were not the best way for doll clothes.
The instructions looked like this...

My latest patterns and some of the ones I have updated are now much easier to read and understand. I have also refined how I do hems and side seams, elastic casings and facings and hems for skirts and dresses.

I have worked out that many of the people sewing methods that are important for how large people sized garments look and drape are of no importance when it comes to small doll clothes.

The latest update for 1813 instructions looks like this...

I have clarified the separate views, I have enlarged the headings and included more steps in the instructions. I have also resized the pattern envelope so you can now just fold the instructions in half and slip them in the envelope.

While doing all this I have not found it necessary to change the shape of the pattern pieces for 1813. My first design is still good and fits great and has lots of options so you don't have to experiment with lengths of different shorts or trousers.

You get the neat trousers and shorts as well as the well gathered boxer style for pyjamas or cute shorts or even track pants.

They fall just on the waist

The boxers are great for cuteness

You get different casing styles as well.

The bias casing looks different.

And to top it all off I have already put together a fashion file for pieced pants that you can easily copy without buying more patterns. I have several other fashion file variations on the drawing board too.

A photo from the FF5 blog post

It may sound a bit too good to be true but I started out with a mission to provide versatile patterns at a great price and that its what I am still doing.
One day I may get into creating more complex or specialised designs, but for now I just enjoy making cute doll clothes and patterns to inspire others to make doll clothes. I can't help rapidly adding new designs to my shop. It is like an obsession to keep creating.

I have learnt that maybe my designing and drafting skills are a bit more advanced than some of my followers - I have been practicing designing and drafting and sewing doll clothes nearly every day for 4 years now - so I have started to write up some of my fashion files as published patterns in my shop to make the designs available to everybody.

Look out for my update on the pieced pants from FF5. The blog post from 2017 is HERE if you want to draft them yourself.

If you want to follow along on my fantastic journey of doll dress making and tailoring you should sign up for my newsletter. I have offers for free patterns and links to my blog posts as well as special offers in my shop and news about any updates I do. I also add a few bits about me and my life and other things I like to do.

If you can't wait for the newsletter you can usually find out what I am doing if you Like my Facebook page.

Happy Sewing ,
Val

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Easy Designing without Drafting with Valspierssews: Fashion File 29

I love creating new designs with the pattern pieces from more than one pattern.

If that is not your thing you can purchase the pattern and instructions in my shop.

I call the process "Easy Designing without Drafting"

It is OK sometimes to make things from scratch but most of the time I like to mix and match fashion elements from different patterns. That way I know it is going to fit.

This is how I made my Easter Dress and Daisy Dress.

You will need:

• the pleated puffy sleeve from 1810
• the sleeve band from 1810
• the bodice from the line dress in 1804
• the cut down peter pan collar from the unlined dress in 1804
• a strip for the skirt 33" long x 8 3/4" wide or 2 backs 9" x 8 3/4" and one front 16" x 8 3/4"
• 2 strips 15" x 2" for the sash ties

Using the same fabric for the lining you will need 19" of 45" wide fabric.

If you would like to know when I create new designs or put up another great blog post about doll clothes you should sign up for my Newsletter.

Sleeve Pleats

• Crease the pattern piece along the pleat fold lines.

• To make the sleeve pleats mark the fold lines on each side of the sleeve. 

• Add a pin or two as a guide in the middle.

• Press to fold them then stitch 1/4" away from the fold across the sleeve so you make a 1/4" pleat. Sew the second pleat. 

• Press them down.

When the pleats are completed:

• Gather the bottom edge of the sleeve and put on the band. See 1810 or 1804
• Complete the lined bodice with the collar. See 1804
• Gather the top of the sleeve and stitch it to the bodice.

Sash Ties

• Make the sash ties by pressing the strips in half. 
• Open them out and press in 1/4" along both long edges. 

• At one end open out the seam allowance and fold it right sides together.
• Trim the end to a slight angle.

• Stitch the last inch and across the end.

• Turn it and press it then stitch down the open side across the end and up the folded side. 
• Place the raw end of the sash tie in the side seam of the bodice 1/4" up from the waist edge so it doesn't get sewn into the waist seam. Baste them both in place then stitch the side seams.

Growth Pleats

• I am using the pattern pieces from FF29 Kit.
• I like side seams to help adjust the gathering.

• Crease the fold lines on the pattern pieces.

• Mark the growth pleat folds lines using the pattern pieces 
• Or measure up 2 1/2" and 4 3/8" from the bottom edge and mark the fold lines.

• Use a few pins to mark across the middle.

• Fold each one and press it.

Before stitching the growth pleats

• Overlock the hem edge of the skirt and the back edges.
• Press up 1/2" hem and stitch by hand or with the blind hem stitch.
• Stitch the growth pleats 1/2" from the fold. Press the pleats down.
• Gather and sew on the skirt. See 1804

• Stitch the growth pleats 1/2" from the fold.

•  Press the pleats down.

Finishing

Complete the rest of the dress.

• Gather and sew on the skirt. See 1804

This is an easy project. You just need a bit more time to measure and sew the pleats.

Once you realise that Easy Designing without Drafting is a great way to expand your design collection you will be creating up a storm.

If you like the idea of just getting all the pattern pieces and the instructions in a neat kit you can
buy FF29 in my shop.

Happy Sewing,
Val

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Custom Creation Doll clothes by Valspierssews

Use my Designing without Drafting method to make Custom Creations with a Fabulous Fit.

I have been saying how easy it is to create your own designs using my patterns because it just is.
Here is the cute school dress I put together using fashion elements from various patterns.

You can read about it here

The latest variation on 1827 bodice is a square neck. I haven't tested this out yet so fingers crossed it looks great. I plan to combine the bodice with the pencil skirt from 1828. I will be using the blouse as is from 1827 to go under the dress.

I'm still testing out the square neck pattern piece but when you make your own creations you will be using pattern pieces that you know look great from other Valspierssews patterns.

There are lots of sleeve variations across my designs and they can be used with almost any other pattern. The same with the skirt styles and there is a growing number of bodice styles too.

How you can do it:

• Print out a blank envelope with the doll outline on it.
• Draw up your design from your head or a picture you have.
• Choose patterns that have the fashion elements you are after.
• Print out a new set of the pieces you want.

I will be posting a link to the envelope soon.

If the square neck dress looks good you will be able to download the square neck variation soon too.

Print out a blank envelope with the doll outline on it.
Draw up your design from your head or a picture you have.

Choose patterns that have the fashion elements you are after.

Print out a new set of the pieces you want.

Print out a new set of the pieces you want.

You will be able to keep all your new designs neatly stored.

When you sign up to receive my newsletter you won'y have to worry about missing any free content upgrades because I always put links to the blog posts for that fortnight in the newsletter.

Sign up now.

Happy Sewing,

Val