Thursday, April 23, 2015

Add-On Bibs and one Collar



The latest bib joins in at the waist. I cut out a half circle peplum skirt but thought it looked a bit too much like a uniform. Definitely a good look for a gym or tennis dress.


I then tried the full circle peplum. I will show this peplum length on the pattern but I think it could be a bit longer so I put on some extra length options.

The next option is a collar really, not a bib. It is meant to extend over the shoulders rather than be sewn into the seam so I had to put a back section on it as well so it becomes a collar. I am going to make mine separate from the dress but you could stitch it on around the neck like a regular collar.


This dress design, with the drop waist and circle skirt is one I saw on Pinterest. I wanted the waist to shape in so I used my Snugfit Elaine shirt pattern with a few simple straight line changes. I then cut down the waist on the circle skirt so it fitted the slightly wider hip section. I have included this line on the full circle pattern as well. I will do a fashion file on how to get this design if I like the final look.


The bibs will be published as 1404a Snugfit Add-On Bibs and the circle skirt will be in 1410 Snugfit Irene. Also look out for the sundress and singlet to be published soon as 1407 Snugfit Frances.

Follow my blog on Bloglovin or Like my page on facebook to see what I am working on. I would love some suggestions for what you would like a pattern for next. I love working out if I can make a design from the pattern pieces I already have too. So some ideas can be very quickly worked out and published in a free Fashion File.

Happy Sewing,
Val

Friday, April 17, 2015

Add onto the basic dress


Snugfit Add-ons is another one of my ideas. I thought it was silly to offer different looking dress patterns that all used the same bodice pattern so instead I have been working on different shaped bibs that just sew on the front bodice. There are already a number of sleeves you can use from different patterns. The tucked sleeve on the green dress is coming soon with 1410 Snugfit Irene along with a few more sleeve variations.

The bibs are slow in coming because I have to make a whole dress to test them and show them off. So far I have the scalloped bib and half pointed bib. I have the others drawn up but not made up.


They are designed to fit straight onto the bodice of 1404 Snugfit Carol. Since I updated my Anatomy of a Gathered Skirt it is quite a useful resource. It has been a few months since I made a dress so I quickly checked up how wide my skirt strip had to be to make it knee length.
If you haven't got it yet you can download it for free from this blog post

I am also working on a strappy dress that will be perfect for making singlets too. Snugfit Irene is nearly done. I have to try out the pleated sleeve variation first. I also have another fashion file in my mind to make a nighty or dress with a yoke made by cutting the bodice of 1402 across just above the under arm. Should be a snap. Don't forget you can swap sleeves and collars between my patterns or use the pockets on other styles. The vest is the only one that is different because it is cut to be sleeveless.

Have a look at my patterns on Craftsy - (a bit cheaper on Craftsy)
or
Etsy.

Why not go and like my Facebook Page. That is an easy way to get updates on my patterns because I post links to my blog posts on Facebook.

Happy Sewing,
Val


Monday, April 13, 2015

Pieced Pants from regular pull-ons for dolls

valspierssews


In 2018 I made these pieced pants into a stand alone pattern for the 18" size. It is Pattern No. 1885

I am going to make these trousers from 1813 Gathered Pull-ons



I drew these from a drawing I found on the internet. Front on the left. Back on the right.



Print out the boxers view 4 front and back and the extensions. For Australian Girl Doll use 2013.
Cut the extensions into front and back and attach to the top sections to make a separate front and back with long-long length.




Pinch the bottom edge of the back to find the middle. Draw a line down the centre of the back. Cut the back along this line.


On the front pattern piece measure along the inseam from the mid-long line 3” and put a dot. I used the mid long line because it corresponds with the finished length of the pants. I had to judge the height of the pieces using the finished length.

Measure along the side seam line 1 1/4” from the mid long line and put a dot.
Join the points to get the angle piece for the front.
Place the back and front side by side and mark the dots so they are level with the dots on the front. Draw the line at the correct angle across the side back only.




When cutting out:
I am going to add an extra 1/4” at the hemline so I have plenty of room to make a casing for 1/4” elastic.

I am going to add 1/4” seam allownaces to the centre line edges of the back pieces.

I am going to add 1/4” seam allowances to the angle edges.

The side seams I just cut level with the paper pattern.



Join the pieces. Top stitch along each seam as you sew it. By top stitching you don't need to neaten the seam allowance for the section.


Overlock all the edges on all the pieces if you want to press the seams open.


Join the side seams then make the trousers as for 1813 Gathered Pull-ons View 1.


When you do the hems, overlock the raw edge then turn up 1/2” and stitch close to the fold and the edge to make a 1/4” casing. I threaded 5” of elastic at the ankle and finished like the boxers waist casing. 

I hope you have a go at these. They are really easy. 


Happy Sewing,
Val

Sunday, April 12, 2015

New Pattern: Gathered Pull-ons this time



1813 Gathered Pull-ons has a narrower leg and complete gathered waist compared to 1812 Flat Front Pull-ons. You definitely need both patterns :)

1813 also has a bell bottom pattern piece and fuller boxer shorts with no side seam.
There are lots of options.
There are the straight pants.


Then the bell bottoms.



The applied casing.



Then the boxers or PJ pants.





Pattern pieces are vector drawn.



Envelope to construct to keep pieces together on your work table.



Folder divider page to keep the files in order when you take out an envelope.


T-shirt is made from  1801 Module 1
Some patterns are made to fit the Australian Girl Doll


Annabelle's PJ shirt was made from 1806 Open Neck Blouse  enlarged to 106% to fit her 20" size.




Happy Doll Dressmaking,
Val





Friday, April 10, 2015

Hippie Style


Working pockets seems to be quite a selling point for doll clothes patterns. It is not the pockets that make the pants though. It is the cut of the pattern. It is easy to start with a good pants pattern and add any kind of pocket you like.  I hope I inspire some of you to give it a go.

So, first up is a variation on 1813 and 2013 Snugfit Mildred by using the pockets from 1812 and 2012 Snugfit Martha. I used the patterns for the Australian Girl Doll, 2013 and 2012.


Trying to reduce the number of pieces I print I have folded the pattern pieces rather than cut them.




Cut out two pockets from the main fabric or lining fabric. Cut out two more pockets from the main fabric or a contrast fabric but this time cut straight up the side edge and straight across the waist edge so you square off the top corner.





This time I just pressed the fold line over the pattern piece. My marker wasn't going to show on this fabric.


Pin the regular pocket face down on the pants front and stitch with a 1/4” seam around the short curve only.


Trim it back to the seam allowance then clip the curve.
Trim it to 1/8”. Turn and press. Topstitch around the pocket opening.



Line up the square cut pocket piece using the pattern piece. 


Mine didn’t align perfectly so I just trimmed it even.



Stitch the pocket edges together. I just overlocked mine.




Put the back pockets on. Because the fabric was thin I made the patch pocket as I did in 1412 Snugfit Martha. (Denim is a bit thick to double up the patch pockets.)
Complete the bell bottoms as per the 1413 Snugfit Mildred pattern. 









Next is a blouse from my very first blouse 2002 Snugfit Anna. It will have a wave hem and flared sleeves and a slit at the neck. I want it to complete the hippie look.

My goal with the fashion files is to provide some inspiration. I love to play with my patterns and spend a lot of time testing and trying new things. I figure if I blog about how I did something it will make life easier for other keen doll clothes sewers.

I cruise around Pixie Faire sometimes and can't believe there is a pattern for pyjama pants and a pattern for shorts and a pattern for yoga pants and a leggings pattern and a skinny leg pattern and a wide leg pattern and a pattern with pockets and a pattern with patch pockets and a pattern with a flat front and a pattern with a gathered waist and a pattern for crop pants and bermuda shorts and they are all $3.99 or $4.99 and sometimes dearer.

I have two pants patterns out that can pretty much do all of the above. My third pants pattern will be one with a separate waist band and I think that will be pretty much it for any kind of trousers that you might want to make. My patterns are $2.00 each on Craftsy and $2.50 each on Etsy.

The slogan I have come up with is:
Great price, Great Fit, Easy to Read and Innovative.

I say innovative because many of the pattern pieces, such as collars and sleeves and pockets and skirts, can be swapped between designs.

I post my blog posts to my Facebook page so if you Like me on Facebook it is easy to see when I do a new pattern or a new Fashion File. 

You can download the instructions for this fashion file as a PDF.


Happy Sewing,
Val